Eyebrows frame the face, and choosing the right shade can make a dramatic difference. While brow serums and treatments like microshading are popular, the simplest way to achieve fuller-looking brows may be selecting the correct color for your hair and skin tone.
The importance of brow color is often underestimated, but even subtle shifts can impact how a face appears. The stark example of Ariana Grande’s bleached brows in Wicked demonstrates this: brows that lack contrast can make someone look washed out or unfinished.
The Importance of Contrast
According to brow expert Joey Healy, founder of his New York studio, brows act as anchors for the face. When they lack contrast due to thinning, graying, or being too light, they lose their framing effect.
Celebrity makeup artist Laura Geller adds that balance is key: overly light brows on soft features can disappear, while overly dark brows on stronger features can look heavy.
How to Choose the Right Shade
The ideal brow shade isn’t about strict rules but about proportion. Experts suggest choosing a color slightly lighter than your hair to frame the eyes without overpowering the face. Professional makeup artist Eddie Duyos emphasizes that brows create expression, and filling them in correctly can transform the face.
If you bleach or lighten your brows, this creates a large open space on the face, which can make you look expressionless or like something is missing.
Hair Color vs. Brow Color: The Nuance
While hair color is a starting point, Healy notes that brows shouldn’t perfectly match. A matchy-matchy look can appear flat or harsh. Instead, aim for a shade one lighter to ensure a soft, natural look.
If your hair is bleached or naturally light, Geller recommends working with your natural brow color rather than going even lighter. Pay attention to undertones to prevent redness or muddiness.
Graying and Aging Brows
As hair lightens with age, brows often need more definition to prevent them from disappearing. However, this doesn’t necessarily mean going darker. Instead, choose products that create shape and define the brows. Duyos suggests cool-toned taupe shades for enhancing graying eyebrows to avoid an unnatural contrast.
Skin Tone & Brow Shade: A Quick Guide
Geller advises fair skin tones to use softer, lighter shades, while deeper skin tones should opt for richer browns. Healy recommends choosing a shade that supports the darkest hairs you still have. If between shades, go lighter and build depth.
Cool, Neutral, or Warm?
Assess whether your brow tone is cool, neutral, or warm. If your brows are red or golden, you likely have warmer undertones. Cool brows are ashier and more taupe-toned on people with pink or blue undertones. Neutral tones are the most forgiving and less likely to pull red or orange.
Product Type Matters
Pencils offer the lightest, most buildable coverage, especially with a thin tip. Brow mascaras provide less precision, so getting the color right is crucial. A clear brow gel locks in the color and sets the shape.
Application Techniques for Natural-Looking Brows
Use light, hair-like strokes when filling in sparse areas instead of shading the entire brow to avoid an overfilled look. Blend with a spoolie to soften lines and help the product melt into your natural hairs. For thinning brows, start with a pencil where skin shows through, then finish with tinted gel for dimension.
To create the perfect shape, fill in the front of the brow, follow the natural arch, and taper the tail for a polished look.
The Bottom Line
Brows are defining features. The absence of definition or color can make a face appear incomplete. Striking the right balance between natural-looking fullness and avoiding an overdone effect is key. Choosing a shade similar to your hair color and in the same family as your natural brows is best. If in doubt, go with a neutral taupe shade. Applying product with small, hairlike strokes and setting with gel will create the illusion of fuller brows.
